Snowmobiling & Ice Fishing in Northern Quebec & Labrador.

Snowmobiling & Ice Fishing in Northern Quebec & Labrador 2004

It was a sunny and beautiful day up in Schefferville. I was up early that April morning and with a nice day like this I could not just stay around the house. I asked my wife Madeleine. Do you want to go fishing with me today? She asked, what is the temperature outside. At exactly 7:45 AM that morning on the outside thermometer it was +9* Her answer was as fast as I gave her the temperature, she said YES. We had a good breakfast, packed a lunch, thermos with tea and one with coffee.

Out to the garage I went, hooked up the sled to my 580 Artic Cat. The ice cutter, tools, lines bait were always ready. Gave a couple of cranks on the Tundra, Madeleine’s snowmobile, hopped on my snowmobile and away we when. It was beautiful; the white snow was changing to grey as the days were getting a lot warmer. At certain places there were spots of tundra also a little water on top of the ice. But there was no danger as the ice was still a good four feet thick.

We had travelled for about an hour when I thought about a place that my good buddy Serge had told me about. I stop and talked to my wife about his place. She said have you ever been there before? I said no, but the way Serge explained it to me I’m pretty sure that I’ll find the place. Anyway with a nice day like this we can fish anywhere on that lake and I bet your bottom dollar that we would catch at least one fish. This lake is huge and called Ashtray Lake. She said how far
from here? A good hour and a half. Okay let’s go.

A half hour later I was on Ashtray Lake and I remembered my buddy saying that from here it was exactly one hour, also he told me always stay on the left side until you hit a small creek, the portage is on the left side of the creek. Cross the portage and once on the other lake, head straight for the other side. Make your holes about 150 feet from shore. You will notice that there is not much water under the ice, about three to four feet max. That is where they are, in three too four feet of water, at this time of the year. It was 8th. Of April 2004.

As we travelled about another half hour, I stopped and looked and about a mile away on the middle of the lake was a herd of caribou. A few standing but most of them laying on the ice. As we continued and getting a little closer to the caribou, they all got up and started running, one behind each other and in a straight line. We counted 42 of them and the speed they were running meant that they were in good shape. They headed straight into the portage that I was taking. Yes the small creek on the right side.

The portage was not open, no one had been here this year, no old snowmobile tracks. We had no problems going through as the snow was soft and Madeleine made the trail up with the Tundra. Once on the other side I could see the place exact that my buddy told me to go and try. Also this was a pretty big lake and a lake with no name. It was Serge’s secret lake. He said that there was monsters (big fish) here.

It was around 11 o’clock and we had managed to get six lines into the water. Yes the ice was still 4 feet + in thickness and when I looked into the 10 inch in diameter hole, blocking the sun with my two hands, I could see that there was about 4 feet of water under the ice.

It took 15 minutes and we had our first laker (lake trout or grey trout) and a nice size about 10 pounds. I caught the first one so Madeliene was really watching the lines now. Yes, she got one and the same size as the one I caught about 10 pounds also.

The bait that the natives use and only that, as bait, to catch big speckle or lake trout is the grey sucker. They cut them into stripes about 5 inches long and one inch in width. They use a huge hook and attach the bait in a way that the fish cannot pull it off. They sometimes tie it on. They use 100 lbs test green line. When the line (still line fishing) is in the water and attached to a big enough tree branch, laid across the hole, there is a loop in the line. Reason is when the fish takes the bait, it has time to swallow the bait and hook before the line is tented. Which means that the hook is stuck in the throat of the fish. No way they will lose their fish.

It was noon and four nice fish caught. I gathered a few pieces of dry wood, lit a fire and toasted our ham sandwiches. Madeline had the tea and me the coffee. Madeleine threw her sandwich aside and ran for one of the lines that was moving. I sat and watched. Heck, I lost it she said. It was a big one. I said yes, they all say that, they always lose the big one. She said no, it was big. She laid on the ice looking into the hole, she yelled, I see it, it’s huge and it’s biting the bait, I got it, I can’t pull it out through the hole, it’s to heavy, help me, pull it out. I stood beside her and watched, I said no it’s your fish you pull it out. I can’t it to heavy. So I had to give in and pulled her fish out. It was heavy and lucky we had a 10 inch in diameter hole. Yes she caught the big one that day. It was 25 lbs. exactly. It’s the one on the picture on the front page of my blog that I’m holding.

We fished for another hour and caught two more, one was 15 lbs and the other 18 and half lbs. Then we said all good things have to have and end and packed up and headed back to Schefferville.

My buddy Serge passed away two years ago and I thank him still today for the great place he told me about. His Secret Lake.

I tell you snowmobilers, fisherwomen, fishermen and hunters this is a place that all of you should try, even in the winter time, like I said from the middle of March up to the first week of May it’s something.

A One Day Moose Hunt on Lac Boucher 1977

It was in late September and my brother-in-law Jean M and I were on another Moose hunting trip. This time we decided to charter a 206 Cessna and go to a different place. A place called Lac or Lake Boucher, 35 miles northeast of Havre St. Pierre. It’s a pretty big lake with a couple of islands on it.

Everything was aboard and on our way. It was a nice sunny and cool day. As we approached the lake JM asked Germain the pilote, if he could at least make one trip around the lake. That he did, I said to JM, that island there would be great. Were not to far from the mainland. JM said yes to the pilote and down we went.

We untied the canoe, unloaded and found the exact place to tent. Someone had camped here before. It was close to noon when we finished. Had a little snack and yes a small snooze at least for an hour.

It was around 2pm and all was quiet not a sound to be heard. JM said I think we’ll start the show now. The weather and all is perfect. I’m ready I said.

JM had his waders on and I had gathered a few dry twigs. I started breaking a couple and JM started his moose walk and then the cow in heat urinating, lifted his feet slowly out of the water and on to shore. I cracked a few more twigs and both listened for about 3 minutes. Not a sound. JM gave the soft and short cow call. Did this the same call about 10 minutes later. Not a sound, I whisered to JM it’s to quiet. He nodded his head in a yes manner. We listened and waited, not a sound.

The little island that we were camped on was approximately 500 feet long by 100 feet wide not more than that and all it had on it was black spruce and a very few birch trees. It was flat with sand and rock beach all around. We were calling toward the mainland about 800 feet away.

The tent from our calling ground was halfway 50 to 60 feet. The trail from us to other side was 4 feet wide. From where we were we could not see the tent.

It was close to 4:30 PM JM had just given the first long call of the cow in heat. I heard the echo hit 3 times, which was good. It still was silent, not a sound.

It was 4:40 PM and I heard something heavy walking in the water on the left side of us towards the mainland. JM also heard it as he looked at me with eyes as big as fifty cent pieces. We did not move an inch. We listened for a good half hour and not a sound, not even a little cracking sound. We didn’t move, we waited.

It was getting pretty chilly as the sun had gone down. I looked at JM and made some sort of movment letting him know that I was going to the tent to put a bit more warm clothes on.

I picked up my 30.06 and started to walk slowly looking at the ground to make sure that I did not step on some twigs. I could see the tent through the bushes and to my great surprise the big bull was about 25 feet on the other side of the tent. What a huge bull and what a rack (63”) Up game the rifle safety off, one knee on the ground and pulled the trigger. It was faceing me and looking me right in the eye when I shot. The bullet struck it on the right side of the chest and came out its back just behind the right shoulder blade. The heart was split it two. All it did was make a half left turn and fell to the ground. I think JM was beside me in a split second. My heart had no time pump fast as everything happened so fast.

JM and I shook hands and tapped each other on the back. We said it’s a trophy and our hunting is already over with. Now we had to work. It took exactly 2 hours and all hind quarters were laid on a rack that we had made.

It was time for a glass of cognac and a good supper with a bottle of red wine. For super, the menu was a few slices of moose liver cooked with bacon and onions. Not to Forget the mashed potatoes and mushrooms. Man was that delicious. We hit the sack that night close to midnight. That was a fast hunting trip. But it was a great one.

The next morning we called the dispatcher to find out if he we get us out in the afternoon. Okay there was no problem. As we got all our equipment and moose meat out on shore. We decided to take a canoe ride to the mainland and see what it looked like. It was pretty windy so we did not want to go to far. As we approached shore JM said don’t move look to your right and yes another bull moose had it’s head out of the bush with his nose up in the air. Trying to smell us. Without
moving we watched him for a good five minutes. He was also a healthy looking moose.

We headed back to the island and waited for our plane. I shall say it again, what a wonderful and short hunting trip that was and I have a lot more to tell you in my next stories.

If any of you outdoor sportswomen and sportsmen are interested in a caribou hunt or salmon, trout fishing trip. I'm your Booking Agent. My services are to guarantee that you have a great and successful trip with anyone of the best outfitters in Northern Quebec or Labrador.

Winter Caribou Hunt 1975

Winter Caribou Hunt 1975

It was a cold morning, it was 8 am. We were boarding a bush plane, Otter and on our way to a caribou hunt. My buddies Andre, Julien and brother-in-law JM. It was the 23 Feb. and a minus -23 outside. We had no choice we had to go this morning; the plane was chartered for today and only bad weather could cancel this trip. We were all well dressed with good warm clothes, snowmobile suits and boots. Each our packsack, lunch and a thermos of coffee for the day. It looked like a beautiful day the sky was blue.

We had been flying for a good 2 hours, no tracks and no caribou insight. Yes I forgot to introduce our pilot Jean Charles, 10 years experience as a bush pilot. I asked him where are we heading? Lake Vital they saw a big herd there yesterday.

A couple of hours more flying and nothing in sight. The pilot looked back at us and said we will have to think on going back. One, the gas is getting low and about 5 hours of day light left. He said, 15 minutes more. I said look caribou tracks. The pilot made a 90 degree to the left and over on the second lake he landed. There was a herd of over 200 heads, they were standing there looking at the plane.

Jean Charles said, first if you guys do this fast we still have time to head back home, if not and it takes to long we will be sleeping in the bush at -30. What do you want to do? Yes that was cold and very cold to sleep outdoors without a sleeping bag. We looked at each other and said we came hunting and that’s what we are going to do. We told the pilot we will do this as fast as we can..

We had landed the Otter a good ¾ mile away. To close would have scared the caribou off. I said 200 caribou; it was more than 500 caribou. Out of the plane and got those snowshoes on so fast and away we went, but not Andre, Andre is not an outdoors sportsmen, he takes his time and is very slow. He yelled, you guys go ahead I will fallow behind with the camera. We said okay, take your time. We were heading for the point of wood about 1000 feet away; we could not see the caribou. I said that they won’t be far from that point. JM and I had to run if we wanted to keep up with Julien, he was 6’4” 200lbs and skinny and those long strides he was taking kept us running.

Once at the point we were all pretty well disappointed, the caribou had advanced a good 1000 feet or more and were just about ready to enter the bush. They were a good 2000 feet from us; I said shoot up high and into the bush just ahead of them. They each had 30.06 rifles and I had my 32spl. They shot; the herd turned around and yes heading right straight for the point and us. That’s happens when you shoot like this, in the bush ahead of them, is the echo they hear in front of them and makes them instinctively turn and head in the opposite direction. The herd was heading straight for the point and for us. I was laying face first in the snow and no moving at all. They were 500 feet away and still coming for us. JM said get ready their 200 feet away. Up we got and let me tell you they were at 150 feet, they all stopped and looked straight at us or in our direction. I aimed the biggest one looking at me and bang, in the neck and down it went. I shot my second one. I yelled stop we are only allowed 8. I counted 1. 5… 7, one missing, but before I finished my phrase, bang, bang two shots and two caribou down. (the pilot had a license and took the extra one)

I heard the pilot starting up the otter engine, taking off and came and landed beside us. He got out and said it’s too late to head back home; we will never make it before dark. You have a choice sleep outside at minus 30 or it will cost you $80.00 more for the charter. There’s a hunting camp 20 miles away, we can stay there for the night. No one argued about that.

We fixed up the caribou, then dug up holes in the snow with are snowshoes, and buried our caribou. This would help keeping the meat fresh and not freezing over night. We brought back with us 3 hearts and 2 livers, this was for supper.

It was starting to get pretty dark and not much time to get to that cottage. I hope that there’s a stove and wood. I was starting to feel the minus 30 it was very cold. I could see the hunting camp as we approached and yes it looked like a big and nice cottage.

We landed and Julien was the fist out and said I’m going to light the stove. The pilot asked if we could help him take out the two batteries. I have to keep them inside the cottage, warm, if not this plane won’t start tomorrow morning. We also covered the nose of the plane with a canvas tarp. Jean Charles said it’s up to -35 and I think that it may be more in a couple of hours.

Julien had the oil stove going and the wood stove. It was so cold inside that linoleum had curved up. We had to be careful not to break it. There was a bottle of Vat 69 0n the table ¾ full and over half of that was frozen solid. You can imagine how powerful the non frozen part was. This was a very nice cottage, 4 bedrooms, living room and big kitchen and washroom. Blankets, pillows and everything, but no food, yes a box of Kellogg’s cornflakes.

JM was the cook and yes caribou heart and liver plus a shot of Vat 69, powerful stuff. The meal (meat) was great, we talked for about an hour and then to bed. Yes we could hear the wind. The pilot Jean Charles’s got up and said I’m going to check the tarp and tie it down more. I asked, do you need a hand? No thanks I’m okay. When he got back he said I don’t want to discourage you guys but were here for a couple of days for sure. There’s a big storm out there.

Let me tell you that it was a storm, you could not even go outside, the wind was so strong. I prayed that we don’t run out of fuel oil because there was no more wood and no more food. We slept 4 nights in that warm cottage and thank god we did not decide to sleep outside.

The third day was nice with that beautiful rising sun; we help the pilot place the batteries back in place. I hope this thing starts this morning, I want home I told myself. We had to cut the ice around the skies as there was slush that had accumulated after the landing. Jean Charles was hoping that we did not chip a piece off the skies. He said: they cost $10K’s a pair. Off we were and back to Havre St. Pierre, back home. Everyone seemed happy to get back home.

This was all in 1975 the way we hunted. Today you don’t hunt like that anymore, unless you have your plane. Today is the American plan in some outfitter camps. Everyone travels buy snowmobile with a guide. All you have to do is shoot it. The rest is all done by the guide. But it’s still pleasant to experience.

I can book you any time in March and April for a good winter caribou hunt. Well it’s a 5 days snowmobile adventures guided by local native, living their culture, includes also, ice fishing big lakers, rabbit snaring, ptarmigan hunting and just relaxing. Cook, snowmobile and guide all included.

Our First Bull Moose on the Romaine River

On the Romaine River once again with J.M. my brother-in-law. It was Friday just before supper time. I was on duty as Chief of Police for the Municipality of Havre St Pierre. When J.M. came knocking at my door. He said I need a partner to come hunting with me on the Romaine River for the week-end. I said that’s impossible for me I have to work all week-end. Did you ask your cousin Michel? He can’t come. Also I said there is a lock-out at the Mine Q.I.T. at midnight. No I can’t go. If I bring you back tomorrow morning, just come in for the night. I’ll ask my constable if he wants to replace me for the night shift.

All was fixed up, it was 5:30 p.m. and we were waiting for J.M's wife to come back with the jeep. 6.0’clock no jeep. I called my buddy, S.Q. police Julien if he could bring us up to the Romaine River. In 10 minutes he was parked in front of my mobile home. We tied the canoe on the jeep, luggage aboard and on our way we were. Half hour later canoe on the river everything aboard and up the Romaine river we went. The weather was great and about half an hour of day light left.
It was a little past 7 p.m. when we arrived to our Island “Iles des Officiers”. Set up camp, got ready for super, it was 8 p.m. The weather was great, not a breeze of wind, it was chilly and to night was the full moon, 17th September 1975.

After our nice tasty supper and as always it was cold roast pork. We decide to take a walk up along the sandy beach of the Island. This took a good hour return. We did not even see a moose track. I said to J.M. that’s good they didn’t come, but will tonight.

J.M. got his big hip waders on and the moose call show began. I cracked a few dry branches, J.M. walked into the water imitating the moose, stopped. We listened for awhile and he gave a soft low call of the cow in heat. Waited and then the imitation of the cow urinating in the water…listened walk out of the water. I cracked a few dry twigs and listened, not a sound could be heard and it was totally quiet.

We stood on the beach for a half hour and J.M. did the soft call just a little loader. We listened for a good hour and then decided to hit the sack. It was close to 10 p.m. I was rolling out my sleeping bag when I heard a grunt noise. I said to J.M. did you hear that, he said what. I said a grunt. I turned out the gas lantern and out the tent we went slowly, not a sound’ we made. We listen a good 20 minutes and then another grunt sound just across the river. My heart started pumping, I could not hear nothing, just the booming in my ears. I touched my heart and I can tell you it was beating at a least 200 per minutes. I bit on my teeth holding them together with a lot of pressure for a couple of minutes my heart beat slowed down. It grunted again, it seemed to be close about a couple of hundred feet from us, in the bush. We could hear the branches cracking and it’s heavy breathing.

It was the full moon and as I said not a breeze of wind and it was very chilly J.M. and I were in our long john’s. We took each our turn to go back to the tent and got dressed. Every move I made I could hear I was making a noise. I picked up my sleeping bag and decided that we were spending the night outside on the beach.

A good hour had passed and not a sound. Not even a crack J.M. gave the soft cow call. Not an answer. Tried it again, not a sound. It was close to midnight and we then heard a sound of outboard motor coming up the river. It passed us and head up about a mile higher when it stopped. Some hunters that probably were working the evening shift.

It was 02 am. When J.M. called again, he said I guess it’s gone. I said I’ll give it my bull call, J.M. said yes do it. I think, I only had half of the call out, when it answered load and close just across the river 100 ft. from us. Man oh man my heart beat started again an twice as load. I could see the moose, just a 100 feet away, it was the full moon, not like day light but pretty close. J.M. passed me his rifle to have a look at it in the telescope. There was a blue line all around the moose. It had its head up and was trying to smell us. We did not move an inch. It walked into the water up to its belly, always had its nose straight up. It was 75 feet away from straight us. It stood there for a good hour. Then suddenly it turned and started running out of the water and into the bush, what a noise it was making, breaking every tree in it’s path, all we could hear was the cracking sound and the grunting. It then started running up the river. This was around 03 am. J.M. gave the cow in heat call, it still was running. I said it's going to cross on to the Island. J.M. said, give the bull call. I did and it stopped, we could not hear it anymore. I gave another bull call, it answered and was coming back breaking everything on its way. It stopped in front of us, about 20 feet in the bush. We waited and waited. This is when we heard for the first time ever, the sound of a horse, the exact sound of a horse when he blow’s and his lips hit together. It stopped and not a sound, but we knew it was there.

It was close to 06 am. and daybreak had started, we could see the other side of the river 100 feet away, no more than that. JM said give it your best bull call, which I did without hesitating and out of the bush it came and into the water. It was big, it was huge, it crossed about half of the river, 50 feet from us. J.M. had it in his sight (telescope) he shot, the moose buckled up and fell. It was floating in three feet of the water. We tied it behind the canoe and crossed to other side. It was floating pretty well. J.M. said we will bring it back to the dock, three miles down river. It took an hour with the 6 horse power motor. We pulled it onto the dock and I gutted it.
J.M. hitched hiked back to town to pick-up his jeep. Came back with the family and a few friends. We picked up the moose all in one piece and installed it on the trailer.. It was a huge bull.

I can say that we weighed every piece with the bones, the hind and front quarters, the spine with sirloin and back straps, the neck, all that together weighed 620 lbs. Total overall weight was good 1000 lbs. After receiving the results from its teeth extraction, that bull was healthy for its age, which was 14 ½ years old. The rack was 5 big horns on each side.

The caribou season for the outfitters just ended here in Northern Quebec. Canada. The hunt on the beautiful George River was a 100% success rate. In March to the end of April 2009 is the great Snowmobile Adventures. A 150 milles round trip for groups of 12 real interested snowmobilers. A 8 day trip with 5 days at the lodge, hunting ptarmigans, snaring rabitts, ice fishing big lake trout and even the possibility of winter caribou hunt. All guided by natives and live their culture.

If interested contact Fred by e-mail at wedgehills@yahoo.com